Frequently asked questions
How is my item shipped?
All our parcels are packed and shipped out from Singapore. Upon placing an order via our web store, you will receive a confirmation email about your order. It will then take 6-7 days for us to process the order, make and pack the item and then prepare for shipping. Do note that, at times, individual items maybe out of stocks and hence we will have to back order the item which will take another 3-4 days before we can prepare the item for shipping.
Once the order is packed, it will be sent out. A shipping confirmation sms/email will be sent out with the tracking number attached.
How long does it take to ship?
Estimated shipping durations (not including processing time of orders) are as follows :
For Singpost Registered Local Singapore Mail : 3 – 5 business days
For International Airmail to Asia Pacific Region (minus Singapore) : 8 – 14 business days
For International Airmail to European and USA Region : 14 – 18 business days
For International Express Worldwide Courier : 3 – 5 business days
Shipping charges will be automatically calculated at the checkout page. If you would like to get an estimate of your order’s shipping charges, simply add the desired products into your cart and click on the check out button. Once done, fill up your shipping address and our system will calculate the shipping charges based on the method of shipping you have selected.
How long does it take for my item to be made?
As we are bespoke craftsmen, we take about 1 to 2 weeks to make your product. The time may vary on the amount of orders we currently have. So do check with us if time is an issue.
How to care for my leather product?
If leather gets too wet: Dry it slowly. Speed drying leather changes its chemical structure, and you end up with stiff crinkle cut chaos. So aim for room temperature drying with gentle air rather than direct heater time with a hair-dryer. And keep it in the shape you want it to end up, as leather will remember the shape it was when wet.
If leather gets too dry: Rub something moist into it. Pick a light leather dressing or cream that is made from reasonably natural ingredients. If those are unavailable, using moisturizers like, Nivea, will do the trick too.
If leather gets dirty: Just use a damp cloth. You don’t want to be putting any soaps or foreign substances in there.
Leather stretches out, but not back: If you start to overfill a wallet, it will never really return to its former taut self. If you stretch a leather bag when wet or very humid, it will move even faster. Just learn to carry the right amount, and this takes care of itself.
How to care for my Waxed Canvas Bag?
Spot clean with a clean, damp rag and mild soap (no detergent). Air dry away from direct sunlight.
Do not store waxed goods in a dark, damp place, as they can attract mold or mildew.
Caring for canvas is fairly straightforward, as many canvas products can be thrown into the washing machine (check the label for direction on that), or can be easily scrubbed with soap and water. Air drying is always recommended.
While Some say Maintenance of waxed canvas is tougher than regular canvas. You definitely cannot machine wash waxed canvas. But, because of the wax coating, scuffs and marks actually add to the character of the item rather than making it look dirty – so, you don’t need to clean waxed canvas very often anyway. Also, over time, the wax coating will thin and you’ll need to re-wax the canvas (usually every 1-2 years, depending on the amount of use).
This is a step obviously not required of un-waxed canvas; but again, it’s not a frequent thing and the benefit may outweigh the inconvenience, depending on your needs.
How do i pay?
We offer payment through Paypal or Direct Bank Transfer. For Direct Bank Transfer please kindly contact me for my details. Thank you
Rivet Design: Flat vs Proud
Proud is the pointed side showing (Top Picture)
Flat is the flat side showing (Bottom Picture)
Tanning, Types of Leather and Patina
Words like vegetable tanned leather or full grain leather are thrown around a lot in our product descriptions but what do they actually mean? In this post, you would learn more about the tanning processes, mainly vegetable and chrome tanning, and the different types of leather.
The Tanning Process:
Tanning is essentially transforming animal skins into actual leather. The transformation of an animal skin into a piece of leather is primarily achieved by removing water molecules from the collagen of the skin, (which is the protein that the skin consists of). allowing it to retain it’s natural resilience without deteriorating over time.
But you can’t just dry a hide out in the sun. This results in an inflexible finished product that is prone to cracking when bent. Instead, we use 2 main tanning methods.
Vegetable tanning uses naturally occurring tannins to dehydrate the hide. Soaking the skins in natural tannins to dehydrate the leather, which replaces the water molecules and binds with the collagen. These vegetable tannin solutions are made up of organic substance present in trees (such as oak, chestnut or mimosa), or a large number of other types of trees and plants.
Chrome tanning uses a solution of chemicals, acids and salts (including chromium sulphate) to dye the hide.
The Slicing Process:
The hides are too thick for usage at this point. Thus, are put through a machine that slices them into different layers. As the characteristics of the skin changes as one goes deeper from the surface. This is one way of differentiating the quality of the leather.
The Types/Grades of Leather:
Full Grain: Starting at the top, we have full grain leather that has the full, complete grain of the hide intact that makes the leather stronger, breathable, and durable. All the rest of the leather types/grades do not have the full grain intact. As this is the upper most layer of the leather, the animal's scars and unique features are still visible! You would even be able to see the hair follicles of the leather!
Top Grain: Top grain is the second highest quality of leather. It is split from the top layer of blemished hide then sanded and refinished. This is how they get rid of scars and scrapes to create a smoother consistent finish. Even though it is strong and durable, it does not age as nicely as full grain leather.
Genuine: Genuine leather is the lowest quality of leather. It is created by using the bottom half of the leather after it is split. With larger collagen bundles, the leather is weaker and more dense. The surface is usually refinished to resemble a higher grade.
Bonded leather: Bonded leather is the dust and shavings of the leather glued and pressed together. It is the worst and not considered leather in my opinion.
The wallet on the left has been used for 3 years while the wallet on the right has not been used. Both started out as the same color.
A patina, a soft sheen that develops on the surface of the leather, imparting a character, a personality to the product. It is like an indelible stamp of ownership, a coat of arms - unique for every user.
Leather is a natural product - and it ages. Also, it absorbs the traces of life around it - the natural body oils that your body produces, water, moisture, conditioner, dirt, dust, sunlight, heat - the leather absorbs it all. Over time, it develops a sheen in some places - while some spots may see a relative darkening.
The more you handle your leather product around, and the way you handle it, also affects the nature and degree of patina that develops. If you use the product naturally - in a usual way with the usual standard of leather care, a patina is likely to come up gradually.